The Lighting Guide: See What You’re Missing
In detailing, what you cannot see, you cannot fix. Proper lighting is not a luxury; it is a fundamental tool that directly impacts the quality of your paint correction and ceramic coating applications. Without the right illumination, swirl marks remain hidden, high spots go unnoticed, and the final finish is compromised.
This guide provides a professional approach to lighting for detailing. We will cover the technical specifications of light, how to set up an effective lighting environment, and the precise inspection techniques required for flawless results. The objective is to equip you with the knowledge to see every defect and verify every step of your process.
Understanding Lighting Terminology
Before selecting lights, you must understand the criteria that define their performance. These specifications determine how accurately you can perceive paint color and surface defects.
CCT (Correlated Color Temperature)
Correlated Color Temperature, measured in Kelvin (K), describes the color appearance of a light source.
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Warm Light (2700K-3500K): Produces a yellowish, cozy light. This is generally unsuitable for detailing as it can hide defects and alter color perception.
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Neutral/Daylight (4500K-5500K): This range is the industry standard for paint correction. It provides a clean, white light that mimics natural sunlight, rendering colors and defects accurately without a blue or yellow bias.
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Cool Light (6000K+): Emits a crisp, bluish light. While useful for specific inspection tasks, it can wash out colors and be fatiguing to the eyes over long periods.
For general paint correction and inspection, a CCT of 5000K is the target.
CRI (Color Rendering Index)
CRI measures a light's ability to reveal color faithfully in comparison to a natural light source. The index is scored from 0 to 100.
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Low CRI (<80): Colors will appear distorted and dull.
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High CRI (90+): Colors are rendered accurately, which is critical for matching paint and identifying subtle imperfections. For professional-grade results, a minimum CRI of 95 is required.
Lumens and Lux
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Lumens: Measures the total amount of visible light output from a source. Higher lumens mean a brighter light.
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Lux: Measures the intensity of light that falls on a specific surface area (lumens per square meter). This is a more practical measurement for determining if your workspace is adequately lit.
For a detailing bay, a target of 500-1000 lux on the vehicle's surfaces is a good benchmark.
Types of Lighting for Detailing
No single light can perform every task. A complete setup requires a multi-pronged approach using fixed overhead lighting, mobile fill lighting, and handheld spot-check lights.
Fixed Overhead Lighting
This forms the foundation of your lighting environment.
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Purpose: To provide bright, even, shadow-free illumination across the entire vehicle.
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Setup: Use linear LED fixtures, such as 4-foot or 8-foot tube lights, arranged in a grid or hexagon pattern on the ceiling. Aim for a CCT of 5000K and a CRI of 90+.
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Placement: Position lights directly above the vehicle and also along the perimeter of the workspace to illuminate the sides.
Mobile and Wall-Mounted Lights
These lights fill in the shadows that overhead lighting cannot reach.
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Purpose: To illuminate the sides, lower panels, and bumpers of the vehicle.
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Setup: Use stand-mounted LED work lights or linear LED bars mounted vertically on the walls. These should also have a high CRI and a CCT between 4500K and 5500K.
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Placement: Position two stand lights on opposite corners of the vehicle (e.g., front-driver side and rear-passenger side). This "cross-lighting" technique reveals defects from multiple angles.
Handheld Inspection Lights
This is your most critical tool for defect removal and coating application.
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Purpose: To perform detailed spot-checks for fine scratches, haze, and ceramic coating high spots.
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Setup: A quality handheld detailing light should be rechargeable, durable, and feature adjustable CCT and brightness settings.
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Technique: Use the light at various angles and distances to the panel. A low, oblique angle is most effective for revealing fine swirls and high spots.
Setting Up Your Lighting Environment
The goal is to create a layered system that provides diffuse ambient light and focused directional light.
Garage Layouts
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Small (One-Car) Garage: Maximize overhead lighting with at least four 4-foot dual-tube LED fixtures. Supplement with two powerful stand-mounted lights that you can move around the vehicle as you work.
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Large (Two-Car or More) Garage: Install a comprehensive grid of overhead LED fixtures. Consider adding wall-mounted linear LEDs along the sides of the bay to permanently eliminate shadows on the vehicle's vertical panels.
The Layered Approach
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Ambient Layer (Overhead): Turn on all fixed ceiling lights. This provides the base illumination for safe movement and general tasks.
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Fill Layer (Stands/Walls): Position your mobile or wall-mounted lights to illuminate the sides of the vehicle. This removes large shadows cast by the overhead lights.
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Inspection Layer (Handheld): Use your handheld light for the final, critical inspection of each small section you are working on. This is the only light that can provide the specific angle needed to verify your work.
Common Lighting Mistakes to Avoid
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Using a Single Light Source: A single, bright light creates harsh shadows and glare, hiding more defects than it reveals.
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Ignoring CRI: Low-CRI lights can make a perfectly corrected panel look flawed, or worse, hide defects that will be visible in sunlight.
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Glare and "Blown-Out" Hotspots: Aiming a light that is too bright or too close directly at the panel will create a blinding glare, making it impossible to see the surface. Directional light should be at an angle.
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Creating "Washing Holograms": Waving a handheld light rapidly across the paint can create the illusion of buffer holograms. Hold the light steady and move your head to inspect the panel.
Lighting Techniques for Each Detailing Stage
Your lighting strategy must adapt to the task at hand.
Pre-Correction Inspection Checklist
The goal is to map every defect before you begin polishing.
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Start with only your overhead lights on to get a baseline view of the vehicle.
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Add your stand-mounted fill lights. Walk around the vehicle and note the location of major scratches and swirl marks on a panel diagram.
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Take your handheld light and inspect each panel from a low, oblique angle (30-45 degrees). This will reveal the finer RIDS (Random Isolated Deep Scratches) and marring.
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Vary the CCT on your handheld light. Some defects are more visible under cooler or warmer light, depending on the paint color.
Post-Correction Verification Checklist
Here, you are confirming that the defects have been fully removed.
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After polishing a section, wipe away the compound or polish residue.
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Use your handheld light at the same oblique angle used for inspection. The area should be free of the defects you targeted.
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Check for haze or micro-marring left by the polishing step. You may need to change the angle or distance of your light to see this. A straight-on angle from a distance can sometimes reveal haze.
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Once the entire vehicle is corrected, turn off all lights except for one stand light at the rear of the vehicle. Stand at the front and look down the body lines. This low-angle "channel lighting" is excellent for spotting any remaining buffer trails or holograms.
Coating Application and Inspection Checklist
Lighting is absolutely critical for spotting high spots before they cure.
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During application, use your stand lights and handheld light to see the "flash" of the coating and ensure even coverage.
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Immediately after leveling the coating on a section, turn off your overhead lights.
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Use only your handheld light. Hold it at a very low, almost parallel angle to the panel.
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Sweep the light across the area you just wiped. Any remaining excess product (a high spot) will appear as a dark, oily-looking streak or patch. These must be leveled immediately.
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Check from multiple viewpoints before moving to the next section.
Quick-Reference Lighting Chart
|
Stage |
Primary Light Source |
Technique |
Objective |
|
Pre-Correction |
Handheld Inspection Light |
Low, oblique angle (30-45°) |
Identify and map all swirls, scratches, and defects. |
|
Correction |
Stand-Mounted & Handheld |
Cross-lighting and spot checks |
Illuminate the work area and verify defect removal in real-time. |
|
Post-Correction |
Handheld & Single Stand |
Oblique angle and long-distance channel view |
Confirm full defect removal and check for polishing haze or holograms. |
|
Coating Application |
Handheld Inspection Light |
Very low, parallel angle (~15°) |
Identify and level high spots and smudges immediately after wiping. |
Final Lighting Preflight Checklist
Before starting any correction or coating project, confirm the following:
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All light sources are clean and free of dust or polish splatter.
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Handheld and mobile lights are fully charged or have reliable power.
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Overhead lights provide sufficient ambient illumination with no major dark spots.
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You have a clear path to move mobile stand lights around the vehicle.
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You have tested your handheld light at various angles to confirm you can spot both swirls and potential high spots on the vehicle's specific paint color.
